The McLux-PR uses an E-can for housing a BadBoy or DownBoy converter. The ground
wire or common negative lead is soldered to the E-can after it is passed through a hole
provided in the side of the E-can (McLux-PR kits only)
Any external solder high points are removed from the E-can. The converter board is set
into the E-can and glued with a bond to the inside lip of the E-can. The ground lead is then
soldered to the LED cathode lead in the case of a BadBoy (shown) or in the case of a
DownBoy, the ground wire can be soldered directly to the ground via in the PCB or to a
ground lead already soldered to the PCB. In either case, the solder connection is made
below the top plane of the E-can. I have found that cutting the LED lead wires to 5/8" in
length (beyond the lip of the E-can ) will facilitate in final connection to the LED. The
leads should be stripped back about 1/8" and tinned.
The E-can is then partially filled with a thermally conductive epoxy (Arctic Alumina) and
the converter board is coated along with the side walls of the E-can. This epoxy provides
both thermal relief as well as a structural bond to the assembly. While the Epoxy is still
uncured, the E-can is installed in the McLux-PR head. Some epoxy should be left on the
lip of the of the E-can as well as some placed on the bulkhead where the E-can will reside.
This will bond the E-can into the McLux-PR head.
Wayne Yamaguchi just got in some LED-PCB rings which aid in solder connections and
LED centering. The PCB has some break away fins and requires a slight removal of
material around the edge to fit into the McLux-PR head. The solder terminations are much
easier with this aid. Solder connections have been painted with nail polish.
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