The McLux-PR uses an E-can for housing a BadBoy or DownBoy converter. The ground

wire or common negative lead is soldered to the E-can after it is passed through a hole

provided in the side of the E-can (McLux-PR kits only)

Any external solder high points are removed from the E-can. The converter board is set

into the E-can and glued with a bond to the inside lip of the E-can. The ground lead is then

soldered to the LED cathode lead in the case of a BadBoy (shown) or in the case of a

DownBoy, the ground wire can be soldered directly to the ground via in the PCB or to a

ground lead already soldered to the PCB. In either case, the solder connection is made

below the top plane of the E-can. I have found that cutting the LED lead wires to 5/8" in

length (beyond the lip of the E-can ) will facilitate in final connection to the LED. The

leads should be stripped back about 1/8" and tinned.

The E-can is then partially filled with a thermally conductive epoxy (Arctic Alumina) and

the converter board is coated along with the side walls of the E-can. This epoxy provides

both thermal relief as well as a structural bond to the assembly. While the Epoxy is still

uncured, the E-can is installed in the McLux-PR head. Some epoxy should be left on the

lip of the of the E-can as well as some placed on the bulkhead where the E-can will reside.

This will bond the E-can into the McLux-PR head.

Wayne Yamaguchi just got in some LED-PCB rings which aid in solder connections and

LED centering. The PCB has some break away fins and requires a slight removal of

material around the edge to fit into the McLux-PR head. The solder terminations are much

easier with this aid. Solder connections have been painted with nail polish.

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